Endangered Appliance Species Part 2 - Electric Coil Ranges

Once upon a time the circular, removable coil top range was the latest and greatest in convenience and style, replacing the sluggish, ugly "solid disc" elements that ruled until the 80's.

Smooth top ranges have been the norm since I'd say the late 90's, but I still get customers who have held onto their ranges for decades, and are either choosing (or are forced!) to replace their traditional coil top range.  Generally, they are disappointed to find that the circular, easy-to-pop-out-and-replace coils they became used to have largely disappeared.  Indeed, if you want any features beyond what I would call the essentials (convection oven fans, air-fry options, warming burners for example) then you have no choice but to embrace the glass-ceramic smooth top surface.

For those of you who are intersted, this article chronicles the history and evolution of the smoothtop, including a short piece on Donald Stookey, the "inventor" of the glass ceramic top: 

https://eurokera.com/blog/the-discovery-of-glass-ceramic/

The transition and focus to smoothtops has been gradual over the past three decades.  When I started in this business in the mid-90's both coil and smoothtop ranges were proudly displayed in roughly even amounts, and both types sold briskly.  Today, my sales floor displays exactly one coil range, the uber-popular JB256 (in fact, this range made the list of the top ten appliances SKUs as I mentioned in a prior blog (10-28, should you want to look it up!)

So, yes, you can still purchase a decent, basic coil range.  However... even the coil range has undergone mandatory changes.

Enter the "Sensi-Temp" elements, which are designed to turn off if a pan reaches too hot a temperature (from boiling dry, for example).   This is a mandated safety feature you will find on any coil-top range, and has been the UL code since 2018.

Sensi-temp element.  Notice the center of the element, which has a safety sensor that will turn the burner off once a certain temperature is exceeded.

Smooth top ranges do offer several advantages over coil tops, which is the main reason the appliance industry has slowly "forced" customers into abandonng their coil ranges by simply eliminating options on what is now mostly a price-conscious choice. 

Having said that, coil ranges still are the right choice in certain scenarios:

For example, you may...

1. Use cast or glass pots on the stovetop frequently, and aren't willing to switch to other cookware materials  
2. Need an inexpensive, easy to maintain range for a rental property or starter home  
3. Have a small kitchen requiring a 24" or 20" stove.

The advantages of smooth-top ranges are numerous.  I'd say the most important are:

1) Faster heatup time

2) Options to add a warming burner

3) Additional feature options such as double ovens, convection or air-fry ovens, even an induction cooktop.

  (Want to know about Induction tops?  I refer you to one of my earlier blogs, dated May 24 2023.)

4) Contemporary styling

5) Easy cleanup - one surface to clean, not several

6) Durability - smoothtops tend to have less frequent repairs as the top "protects" the heating elements.

Now, if you do prefer the older style coil top range, at least you can take solace in the fact that some are still available.  Technology adavancements do bring change: older customers may still remember those old solid disc burners!  (shown above.  The industry had just about phased these out by the mid 90's when I began selling appliances.)

Below is the previously mentioned GE JB256, with two high speed coils, an extra large oven, lift up top, and a self-cleaning oven.  As I said, this is still a very popular model in the right application.

Next up - The Disappearance of the Portable Dishwasher !!

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https://eurokera.com/blog/the-discovery-of-glass-ceramic/

Endangered Appliance Species Part 1 - Whatever Happened to the Trash Compactor?

I had a customer come into our Westfield store the other day wanting to look at a replacement trash compactor.  He was surprised when I informed him that we had none on display, and seldom field requests for them.

"Why don't people buy compactors?" he asked.

"That's a great question!" I replied.

You would think that in light of today's landill-challenged planet,  a space-saving appliance would be in every hone.  Actually, compactor sales have been in decline since the late 80's, and as of 2019 less than 4% of households contain one.

Why?  What happened?

Some of the more commonly cited reasons include:

1. Smell- compacted food and debris will eventually stink.
2. Weight - a compacted bag of trash can weigh over 30 lbs.   Many people, especially seniors, can have a problem with a bag that heavy.
3. Price - compactors today sell in the $1000-$1200 range. The best selling unit in our distributor year-to-date is the GE UCG1520SS ($1199, $1149 in black or white.)
4. Shape - compactors make a taut rectangular trash bundle.  This often doesn't work well with a circular trash receptacle.

The site Disposable America expands on these points nicely:

https://disposableamerica.org/course-projects/anastasia-day/compactor-failure/

So, What if you do have to replace your compactor?   

As I mentioned above, compactors cost upwards of $1000, and options are limited.  The best selling unit in our distributor year-to-date is the GE UCG1520SS ($1079, $1149 in black or white.)   https://www.mannystv.com/products/GE-Appliances/ge/ucg1520nss.html

Or, What if you want to upgrade your kitchen, have a 15" wide (the standard cabinet opening for a compactor), and don't want a compactor in your shiny new kitchen?

Well, plenty of refrigeration products are built to fill that 15" space: beverage centers, wine coolers, second refrigerators, even icemakers!  Plan to spend anywhere from $1000 to $3000 on a built-in style secondary unit (built-in units, built for either a 15" or 24" cabinet opening, are designed to work with zero air clearance, and are therefore pricier than a free standing unit.)

A couple of examples:  First, the GE wine cooler PWS06DSPSS

To the right, the Whirlpool wine cooler WUW35X15DS

If these aren't in your price range, other "free-standing" versions of these products are available, usually in the $300-$600 price range.  

How to tell whether a unit is designed to be "built-in"?  The width is the giveaway.  Free-standing products are intentionally NOT 15 or 24".  The manufacturers want to make sure you don't try to build in a fridge that is not designed for that appliacation!

If you have questions on any of this, or would just like help with your remodel project, you can reach out to any of our sales professionals in any of our ten showrooms.

Coming soon- "Whatever happened to the Good Ol' Electric Coil Range?"

Unusual situations (or, Another reason to buy from a local appliance retailer)

"So, David.  Tell me why I should buy from Manny's instead of one of the big retailers?"

I get asked a question like this at least a couple of times a month.  And, to be honest, it is a great and very fair question!  Just what does a retailer like Manny's offer you, the consumer, vs. the Big Box Behemoths out there?

I'll start with some easy answers:

1) We can normally deliver faster.   Often we can send professional delivery personnel to your house 2-3 business days after you order an appliance.   Note --We can also hold your merchandise if you're not quite ready to take delivery.

2) We service what we sell!  With only a few exceptions, we are factory authorized to service your appliance, whether within the manufacturer warranty period, with an extended warranty period (should you have had the foresight to purchase a service contract with us), or outside the warranty period.

3)  EXCLUSIVE REBATES!!  This is a big plus!!  Yes, we have access to manufacturer rebates not available to the so-called Big Box stores.  Manny's is part of the New England Appliance Group, a powerful wholesale buying group.  This group negotiates with the vendors so that its members can offer exclusive rebates to customers - that's on top of any national rebates that are in play.  These rebates can be as large as $1500, and are often in the $300-$600 for three and four piece appliance packages.

Here's a sample rebate:    

These are all excellent reasons to consider Manny's for your next appliance purchase!

Today, I would also like to talk about one more reason that doesn't get brought up as often:

"I have an unusual situation.  I'd like to discuss this with someone who knows what they're talking about."

And yes, this statement also comes up several times a week. Here at Manny's, being a "specialty retailer", one that finds solutions for customers every day, we feel we are better equipped to help you out with these issues.

Some of the questions we get asked include:

• -- The drain spout for my washer is very high.  What can I do about this?  Which washer should I buy?
• -- I'd like an over-the-range microwave that also serves as an exhaust vent, but I don't have very much space above my stove.  What can I do?
• -- Can my range be converted from natural gas to propane? If so, what do I need to do?
• -- My old dishwasher (or stove, or refrigerator, etc.) is only four years old and it's broken.   What are my options?
• -- I'd like a new French Door refrigerator, but I only have 68" in height.  What are my options?
• --I'd like to take advantage of the President's Day promos, but I won't need my appliances delivered for a while. What should I do?
• -- I need to replace my dishwasher, but I can't install it.  Can you help us?
• -- I need to replace an old range that doesn't have a back.  I've heard they've changed over the years.  What should I do?

(Photo of Bosch slide-in range)

You get the idea.  We're specialists!  We've probably run into your scenario before, and can offer advice and solutions to your dilemma.

I like to think that we aren't just salespeople, but appliance consultants.  Take advantage of our expertise and our experience.  Many of Manny's employees, myself included, have been in the appliance industry for decades!

Please reach out to any of our ten stores with your appliance questions or needs.  We look forward to helping you out!

Common Refrigerator Care/Maintenance Questions

My wife texted me the other day while I was busy working to let me know she had pulled our refrigerator apart, and had given the shelves, door bins, etc., a thorough cleaning.  I of course thanked her, not only for taking care of our fridge, but also for giving me a Blog idea.

So, let me ask and answer some common questions we get here in the store:

What do the humidity controls in my crispers do?  How do I best use this feature?

Essentially, the humidity controls are simple low-tech glides.  When set for high humidity, the glide seals the crisper, trapping the moisture found in leafy vegetables, preventing them from drying out and prolonging their shelf life.  On the low-humidity setting, the glide opens up, releasing the moisture of, say, skinned fruits so that the drawer has the same (low) humidity as the rest of the refrigerator.

For a more technical explanation, I give you this from Kridovia.com (full link follows):

• Adjust the Humidity Sliders  As mentioned, the major role of humidity or crisper drawers is to extend the life of the fruits and vegetables by contolling the airflow with the help of the vents. Most of the crisper drawers have adjustable humidity vents which allow closing the airflow which crates more humidity or opening it up which creates low-humidity environments. As per the top kitchen appliances provider in Kolkata, to get the best out of the humidity drawer is by creating one high-humidity and one low-humidity drawer (note: your fridge may already be set up for this!) 
• Trap Ethylene Gas.  Do you know the primary reason why your food goes bad so quickly? It’s because of the ethylene gas which is emitted by the fruits like bananas, kiwis, and pears as they ripen. The refrigerator's humidity drawer can help you with that. When you pause the airflow access and create a high-humidity crisper drawer, all the ethylene gas is trapped inside and unable to prematurely soften or discolor the produce.
• Use the Humidity Zones Wisely. According to the top online refrigerator provider, the low-humidity drawer is perfect for things that rot easily such as apples, pears, avocados, melons, etc. The high-humidity drawer is perfect for anything that wilts like thick-skinned vegetables or leafy-green vegetables. The high-humidity drawer is also perfect for ethylene gas-sensitive items. Since all the gas-producing items are in another drawer, the food is safe here.
• Don’t Overfill or Underfill the Drawer.  The humidity drawer is designed to work perfectly and efficiently when it is full by two-thirds. But people often neglect it and end up overfilling the drawer or underfilling it. Be careful not to pack the drawer too tightly as the food won’t be able to breathe and the weight of heavy items can destroy the delicate items

https://kridovia.com/blog/know-more-about-refrigerators-humidity-drawer-with

My icemaker is jammed and I don't want to have to pay for a service call; what can I do?

People do love the convenience of an icemaker, but they can be temperamental.  Jams can happen, and tend to happen more frequently when the ice is not used for a few days.  

Today's freezers are almost 100% self-defrosting,  When these freezers go into defrost mode, the outer edge of your frozen foods  slightly thaws.  When the defrost cycle ends and the compressor kicks back on, ice cubes can meld together as the outer surfaces refreeze.  There's nothing one can do about this - it's a simple law of Physics!  Often however, your icemaker can be unjammed easily! 

This explanation from Universal Appliance Repair spells out the procedure (full link follows):

When the ice storage bin isn’t used frequently or has become too full, melting and refreezing can allow the ice cubes to start clumping together. This makes it impossible for the ice maker to dispense them. Fortunately, this is a relatively easy problem to resolve. Remove the storage bin and use your hands to break up any clumped up ice. If there are clumps that are frozen solid, you’ll need to dump them out into the sink. Once you replace the ice storage bin, it should resume function, but remember that to avoid this problem in the future, try to use your ice maker on a more frequent basis.

https://universalappliancerepair.com/how-to-safely-fix-a-stuck-ice-maker/

What's the best way to clean the inside of my fridge?

Yes ... back to the original question! 

Good Housekeeping recommends the following procedure for your liner and shelves:

• Take out the salad crisper drawers from the bottom of the fridge if you can and all the removable shelves. If it's not obvious how to get them out, check the user manual before you start so you know exactly how to do it without damaging anything – it will also help you to get them back in! If you can't find the user guide, check the manufacturer’s website 
• Next, wash shelves and salad crisper drawers you've been able to remove thoroughly with washing-up liquid and hot water. If the shelves (or any other removable parts) are made of glass, it’s best to let them reach room temperature first to reduce the risk of them shattering in very hot water.
• Use a toothpick to remove food residue that has collected in the join between the surface of the shelf and the shelf surround. Rinse the shelves and salad crispers with clean water, then allow them to dry naturally on the drainer or dry with a clean tea towel and put them to one side if your drainer isn’t big enough.
• For any shelves or drawers you can't remove, wipe them down with a clean cloth soaked in a cool solution of wsahing-up (note: "dish detergent" to we Americans!) and water and thoroughly wrung out.

Well said!  

For a more thorough and comprehensive guide to maintaining your  refrigerator, please refer to the link below:

https://www.goodhousekeeping.com/uk/house-and-home/household-advice/a684998/how-clean-is-your-fridge/

If you have any other questions regarding appliance care and maintenance, you can reach out to any of our ten stores, or email me through the link provided, or my email (dlunden@hotmail.com.)

What kind of washer should I buy?

I was driving home from work one night last week,  listening to The National on my Prius's stereo system, when I received a text from my wife.  A friend of hers was in dire need of a new washer, and she wanted buying advice.

Now, that really is a difficult question to answer without more information, such as budget, family size, space limitations, turnaround time, etc.  I relayed this concern to my wife, who then had her friend call me to help decide what to get.

This exchange got me to thinking about two questions:  Just what are the pros and cons of the different types of washers?  And which style is the most popular with consumers?  I decided these questions would make for an interesting blog subject (and I hope you, the readers, agree!)

Basically, there are three types of clothes washers:

 Front loading  (below is the Maytag MHW6630HW)

Then, we have two types of top-loading washers:

1. Top Loaders with traditional agitators 
2. Top Loaders with an impeller type wash plate.

(

(Shown above are the agitator driven Speed Queen TC5003N, and the impeller driven GE PTW600BSNRS)

(Actually, before I get into the differences, let me point out what's changed in the last fifteen or so years - if you haven't bought a washer since the 2000's or earlier there have been significant changes to today's washer, regardless of style. )

The four major changes are:

1. Capacity has increased.  For example, in 2000 a "super capacity" washer was 3.0 to 3.2 cubic feet.  Today machines can be as large as 5.5 cubic feet in capacity!  In fact, the smallest capacity on a normal, 27" full sized washer is 3.9 cubic feet.  In short, all washers have larger tubs!
2. Water consumption has greatly decreased.   Today's machines use approximately 12 gallons of water per load on front loading machines, and about 20 gallons on top loaders.  By contrast, washers a generation ago could use over 40 gallons per load!
3. (and here we mention the negatives!)  Cycle times are longer.  The tradeoff for using less water and having a larger capacity is that it becomes necessary to have a longer cycle time to properly clean a load of laundry.
4. All washers have electronic controls, vs. mechanical.  All machines employ a water level sensor to measure and limit the amount of water used per load.  The days of turning a dial, then pulling the dial out to start the machine are gone.  Having dealt with many hundred customers over the years selling washers, I can attest that many people miss the old mechanical washers!)

Now, back to the differences between the three washer styles. ** Note that I'm talking about the typical full size machines here.  There are specialty machines (including an all-in-one I wrote about in an earlier blog - see below -  and smaller 24" wide machines on the market, but these make up a very small percentage of washer sales.** 

 www.blogger.com/blog/post/edit/5695512488839797470/5337393826347161297?hl=en 

This article below from Energystar.gov does a nice job explaining the difference between front and top loading machines.   Granted their perspective is heavily biased toward the more efficient front load styles, but I still found it to be a balanced look at the pros and cons of front vs. top loading washers:

https://www.energystar.gov/products/ask-the-experts/which-clothes-washer-should-i-choose-front-load-or-top-load

Likewise, this article from The Spruce does a great job explaining the pros and cons of the two different types of top loading washers:

https://www.thespruce.com/impeller-vs-agitator-8387026

I hope all this helps you understand the difference between the three washer types, and can help you make a decision that is "right" for your home and needs.

Now, to the second question:  Which washer type is the most popular?   

The most recent information I was able to find comes from House Digest (the link to the entire article follows):

While traditional top-loading washing machines generally have pretty basic options in terms of wash cycle customization, they are the biggest sellers in the market. In 2022, Consumer Reports noted that these workhorse machines have remained the most popular in terms of sales even as more advanced models have arrived on the scene. "Top-load agitator washing machines aren't the most technologically innovative, but they continue to outsell front-loaders and even HE top-loaders, the kind without a center-post agitator," the nonprofit consumer organization stated. "According to the Association of Home Appliance Manufacturers, 44 percent of all washer shipments in 2020 were top-load agitators."

Though front-loaders will keep your clothes and other washable pieces looking newer longer, they still represent a relatively smaller portion of the washing machine market. Consumer Reports (CR) also pointed out in 2022 that front-load washing machines accounted for only about 28 percent of all washing machines sent to retail stores in 2020. They got their data from the Association of Home Appliance Manufacturers and shared that the percentage was "a marked drop from the 38 percent shipped in 2009. By comparison, 44 percent of shipped washers were top-load agitators and 28 percent were high-efficiency top loaders."

https://www.housedigest.com/1044580/front-load-vs-top-load-washers-which-is-right-for-your-home

I could easily go on about other facets of today's washers (maintenance and care, potential smells, longevity, noise, and so on), but I'll save that for another article!

It's holiday time! 

    

And - like every Thanksgiving/Christmas season - we have an increase in customers looking to replace or upgrade their stove.   I thought you, the customer,would appreciate a guide as to what to expect from today's newer, higher performing ranges, and also what kind of questions your salesperson might be asking.

For the sake of this blog, let's assume you are replacing or looking at the traditional sized 30" wide range.  There are smaller width sizes, 20" and 24" wide ovens available (normally for smaller kitchens or apartments), and larger "professional" ranges in the 36" and 48" size.)  If you are looking for a standard 30" wide range, take heart:  ranges are much more standardized size-wise then refrigerators.  For example, there never have been 29" or 32" ranges!

Let's start with some easy questions:  

Are you looking for an electric or gas range?    (And if the range is gas, hopefully we're asking whether you have natural or LP gas?)

Are you looking for a "free-standing" range (a traditional style range with a back), or a "slide-in:"range.  These backless ranges have become more popular in recent years as people remodel and upgrade their kitchens.   The picture below should help (free standing range is on left, slide-in on right):

          

What color would you like?  If you have a white or traditional black kitchen, you willfind your replacement choices are beginning to become more limited.  Stainless steel, usually but not always with a coating to help resist fingerprints, has been the most popular appliance finish for at least a decade and probably longer.

Two nice improvements worth mentioning:! Oven cavities have become progressively larger over the years (while the stove itself still fits into a 30" opening).  Also, cooktops have become more powerful.  It is not uncommon for an eletric range to have a burner that exceeds 3000 watts (vs. 2100-2500w max a generation ago.)  Gas ranges boil water much faster!  Back in the late 90's for example, a 12,500 BTU burner was a big deal, and marketed as a "High Output" burner.   Today, stoves can have anywhere from 15K to as much as 21K BTU on one burner, (and usually have a lower BTU on the low end for better simmering as well!)

                                                                       ***

Once these questions are asked and answered, it will become easier to hone in on models that match your wants and needs.

Some of the features on today's stoves, roughly in order of most basic to most expensive, include:

Self cleaning ovens.   Often, these stoves also include a steam clean feature, which is faster and more eco-friendly then the traditional high-heat self clean cycle.  What is steam clean?   Here's an explanation, courtesy of Frigidaire:

https://support.frigidaire.com/Owner-Center/FAQs/Cooking/RangesStoves-WallOvens-Cooktops/electric-and-induction/When-and-how-do-i-use-steam-clean/

Five burners vs. four.  The majority of electric smooth-top ranges include a fifth burner at the center rear of the cooking surface.  This burner serves as a "warming" burner, to help maintain temperature and simmer on a recipe item that has completed the cooking process.

(Note - in gas ranges, not only do many stoves include the fifth burner, but a griddle plate is often included, or at least available as an option.)

Convection and Air-Fry.  Do you have a table top air fryer at home?  If so, then you essentially have a mini convection oven.  The convection feature (forced hot air circulation, allowing more even and faster cooking) becomes available as an option usually about halfway into a manufacturers lineup.  In addition, recently many stoves include an air-fry button to the oven controls, using the convection fan and heating elements together.

Double oven.  Most manufacturers offer a couple of models with two ovens, one above the other.  This offers two advantages:  1) the ability to cook two different foods at separate temperatures, or 2) the ability to cook a small meal iusing the smaller, faster heating and more efficient, oven cavity.

This should give you an idea of what's available on a modern range.   Which range is the "right" range for you?  That depends of course.  Two of the most common factors are usually 1) budget), and 2) how much you see yourself using some of these nicer features (such as the speed and flavor retention of a convection oven.)

And, please -- enjoy the shopping process!  In case you're wondering, availability is just about back to pre-Covid 19 levels, so in most cases Manny's can deliver you a new range (and remove your old if desired) within just a few days.   

If you have any questions, you can reach out and speak to any of our professional staff in any of our ten locations.

Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays everyone!

The Care and Maintenance of Your Appliance

One of my customers came into the store two weeks ago asking for my assistance on an unfortunate situation.  They had accidentally left a plastic lid on their electric smoothtop range.  The plastic melted, and adhered to the cooking surface.  I was asked what they should do, to which I had to reply, "I have no idea."  Frankly, I was stumped.  

At this point we referred to Google (what did we do before Google and YouTube?), and were able to find a possible solution.  I never heard back from this customer, so I'm guessing the solution below worked.   

What was that solution, you ask?  Well, this is the solution we found, courtesy of  "Maids.com"

 https://www.maids.com/blog/how-to-get-melted-plastic-off-your-oven-and-stovetop/

"Mix baking soda with a small amount of water to form a thick paste. Apply the paste directly to the melted plastic and let it sit for a few minutes. The baking soda paste will help loosen the plastic residue. Use a damp cloth or sponge to gently scrub the area until the plastic is fully removed."

So this got me thinking: what cleaning and care questions are we asked most often?  Below, I've listed a number of these questions and answers, with a focus on features that are relatively new to today's appliances.

"My refrigerator has the new, fingerprint-resistant stainless steel front.  What's the best way to clean the door?"

Per GE, the best way is:

1. Use a solution of mild soap and warm water with a clean, soft cloth or microfiber cloth.
2. Wipe dry with a clean, soft cloth or microfiber towel to avoid streaking or water spotting.

Incidentally, GE also has a solution for removing scratches from stainless doors:

Apply the toothpaste to the toothbrush and work the solution back and forth over the scratch following the grain. Use a clean, damp cloth to wipe away the toothpaste and see if the scratch is gone. Repeat the process until satisfied and apply a light coat of stainless-steel polish or olive oil.

(If someone should decide to give this a try, I'd love to know your result!)

"My new dishwasher has a trap on the bottom.  What's the best way to clean this? How often do I have to clean this?"

The answer to the first part is easy:  

Twist the Ultra-Fine Filter assembly counterclockwise and lift to remove for cleaning. Rinse filter with warm soapy water and use a sponge to carefully remove any stubborn particles. 

As to the question "how often?", once every two months is reccommended.  If the dishes start to feel gritty after washing, you may want to check and clean the filter sooner.  Personally, we clean ours at least once a month.

"There's a 'steam clean' button on my new range.  What is that?  How does it work?  How does that differ from self clean?"

The answer to the "what, and how":

What is a steam clean oven? Some ovens feature a steam clean option that uses water to loosen soils to make wiping away easier. This option, which can last anywhere from 1 to 1.5 hours, uses heat and water to soften grime and food residue from the interior of the oven.

The link below from "This Old House" elaborates further:

https://www.thisoldhouse.com/cleaning/22665048/steam-clean-oven

As to the difference between self and steam clean:  This explanation is from Kitchenaid (the full link is below):

Steam-cleaning ovens work to soften messes and debris inside your oven. Water added to the bottom of the oven creates steam that loosens soils so you can easily wipe them away. Self-cleaning ovens work by heating up to a very high temperature and burning off food residue. You can then wipe away the resulting ash once the oven cools.

https://www.kitchenaid.com/pinch-of-help/major-appliances/self-vs-steam-cleaning-oven.html

Finally, one more question:  

"I've been told I should clean my dryer vent and lint filter.  How should I go about that?"

Here's the simple answer, courtesy of BobVila.com:

1. Unplug the dryer.
2. Detach the dryer vent hose from the wall.
3. Remove and clean the hose and vent cover.
4. Reattach the hose and clean the exterior vent.

Sounds simple, and pretty obvious, doesn't it?    For more elaborate instructions, I'm including this link:

https://www.bobvila.com/articles/how-to-clean-a-dryer-vent/

One final thought regarding your dryer screen:  Do you use dryer sheets?  If so, they can leave a film which over time can restrict air flow.  Washing your filter monthly with mild soap is an excellent preventive measure!

If you have questions about any other care and maintenance issues, check the "Use and Care" book that most manufacturers supply with a new purchase.  If that doesn't work (or you threw away your manual), then feel free to take advantage of the many resources the World Wide Web supplies, or just shoot me an email.