In my last post I gave an overview of energy efficiency in your kitchen appliances from a historical perspective. The "origin story" of efficiency consciousness may or may not have been interesting to you - I hope it was! -, but I'd like to talk about some specific ways you can make sure the appliances you have in your home in 2026 run as inexpensively as possible.
Let's start with your refrigerator, easily the biggest swallower of your hard-earned electric dollars!
Refrigerators, as I have mentioned before, have been the focus of efficiency mandates since the 1980s, and even inexpensive refrigerators will save you hundreds of dollars vs. their ancestors. A decent portion of these units also qualify for EnergyStar certification, which means they exceed an already very strict mandate by an additional 10%.
(by the way, do not confuse EnergyStar with the EnergyGuide you see on all fridges, washers, and dishwashers! The EnergyGuide was implemented to help you see the difference in energy usage between models. EnergyStar highlights models that exceed standard by a given amount (which varies from appliance to appliance.)
How can you make sure the fridge in your kitchen is operating at peak efficiency? Take a look at the suggestions below:
- Check the thermostat settings on your fridge: Ideally, the refrigerator (or "fresh food") section should be set at 37F, while the freezer is best at 0F. These temperatures combine efficiency with food preservation, and almost all new models come out of the box pre-set at these temps.
- Keep your refrigerator and freezer at least 3/4 full. The more "air" being cooled, the harder the compressor has to work.
- Make sure the vents in the back of the compartments are free of obstruction.
- If accessible, clean the condenser coils in the back of the fridge. This is especially important if you, like myself, have one or more pets in the house.
https://www.nopec.org/residents/energy-tips/refrigerator
Clothes washers, like refrigerators, have been the focus of many energy mandates in recent decades. You can scroll down to my last blog for more specifics, but you can expect your modern washer to use about 50% less water and energy, while washing a larger - in some cases substantially - batch of your clothes.
Some suggestions to both save energy, while at the same time getting the most out of your washer:- Use cold water cycles. Today's detergents are formulated with enzymes that work great in cold water, and sometimes even better than in warm or hot temperatures.
- For most loads, use the sensor option available on almost all washers, both top and front-loading. For clothes that aren't heavily soiled, this will clean your clothes properly with a minimum of wear-and-tear on the fabric, as well as using the least amount of water.
- (If the clothes are more heavily soiled, then you would be better off using one of the "Heavy" or "Bulky" cycles, as more water and in some cases more aggressive agitation will do a more thorough cleaning job. If the clothes aren't too soiled however, these cycles are probably more washing and water than you actually need.)
- Follow manufacturers recommendations for loading size. Normally, filling the tub more thatn 3/4 full can put too much stress on the suspension and motor, cutting into the washer's life expectancy.
I read several articles on this subject, but found this article by the New York Times to be the best (and with the fewest pop-ups!)
https://www.nytimes.com/wirecutter/reviews/advice-washing-machine-tips/
Dishwashers have also beome much more water stingy and energy efficient. Today's machines use less than five gallons of water from start to finish (about the same amount of water you're using in your sink in 1 1/2 to 2 minutes!), while doing a better job at cleaning your dishes, and cleaning a larger load than in the past. (I know, I know, they all take longer. Unfortunately there's nothing I can do about that except to suggest a shorter cycle.)
To maximize both cleaning and efficiency, consider the following suggestions:
- Take advantage of the "turbidity" sensor pretty much all dishwashers have been using for the last 20 plus years. This feature measures the cloudiness in the water, and finishes the cycle when the water is sufficiently clear. On average this feature will take less time and water than a normal cycle - and will occasionally use a little more water when necessary for proper cleaning.
- Unless the dishes are especially caked, use the short cycle. Just as with clothes washers, the heavy duty cycles are designed for cleaning tougher, more soiled dishes. Generally this cycle is "overkill" on everyday loads.
- Don't pre-rinse! As I said above, so much more water is used when washing or prewashing in the sink. You still want to scrape loose debris from your plates and bowls, but let your machine do the dirty work.
- Finally, if your machine has one of the filter traps that modern units utilize, be sure to clean it monthly; this will help your dishes come out as clean as possible.
Again, the New York Times came through with a fantastic article on dishwasher performance. Take a look below.
https://one5c.com/how-to-make-dishwasher-more-efficient-137208308
Finally, I want to touch on two appliance categories, Electric ranges and Electric dryers. While the DOE doesn't provide EnergyGuides on these two categories (two many usage variables and consistent technology being the main reasons), a number of models have appeared in recent years displaying the EnergyStar logo and certification.
What makes a dryer E-star qualified?
These dryers utilize moisture sensors to determine when your clothes are dry to eliminate overdrying (and increased energy use), and have lower heat "eco settings", which take longer but save energy. They also tend to shut the dryer off when the clothes are adequately dry, but not quite as dry as older models.
In addition, ductless dryers use even less energy. Just be aware that, like dishwashers, cycle times on the dryer will be longer (30-45 minutes) compared to ducted dryers.
How about E-star qualified ranges?
The EnergyStar certification is based on total overall electric usage of the range, including the electricity used during idle times (In case you weren't aware, all plugged appliances and electronics consume energy even when not in use.). Also, making the step to an induction-powered range versus conventional radiant heat usually qualifies for the E-star rating (besides being sooooo much easier to cook on, and often qualifying for local electric company rebates!)
I hope this helps you at least a little bit. If you've any questions, feel free to reach out to me (dlunden@hotmail.com), or by contacting any of the sales professionals at our thirteen locations (addresses and contact info on the front page of our site.)